Rooms & applications FAQs

Before starting the tile installation, it’s essential to properly prepare the floor. Any loose or damaged tiles should be removed, and the floor must be thoroughly cleaned and degreased to ensure proper adhesion. This is particularly important for areas where previous tiles may have left behind residue, dust, or oils.

If installing vinyl tiles, it’s important to seal the surface prior to fixing with the appropriate adhesive. This helps to prevent any adhesion issues and ensures a secure bond with the new tiles.

For unglazed tiles or natural stone, once they’ve been properly cleaned, they can generally be adhered directly to the substrate with a suitable adhesive. No additional surface treatment is necessary for these types of materials as long as they are clean and free of contaminants. This process provides a clean, smooth surface for secure installation.

High traffic refers to areas that experience frequent or heavy foot traffic, such as entryways, hallways, kitchens, commercial spaces, and public areas. Tiles in these spaces need to be highly durable, scratch-resistant, and able to withstand constant use without showing wear. Choosing a tile rated for high traffic helps ensure long-lasting performance and appearance, even under tough conditions.

As per BS 5385-3, traditional sand and cement screeds should be at least 21 days old, at which point the underfloor heating can be increased by 5⁰C every day until the maximum water temperature advised by the underfloor heating manufacturer is reached. The underfloor heating should then be turned off for approximately 24 hours to allow the screed to cool down to room temperature. If site conditions are cool, maintain the screed and room temperature at 15⁰C or just above by adjusting the heat input accordingly. It can then be tiled as normal using the appropriate ARDEX Cement-Based Tile Adhesive.

As per BS 5385, the maximum weight restrictions for wall substrates are: Gypsum plaster: 20kg/m2 Gypsum plasterboard (12.5mm thickness): 32kg/m2 Sand and cement rendering: 64kg/m2 Lightweight foam-cored tile backer boards: 60kg/m2 Glass reinforced cement-based boards: 50kg/m2 Gypsum fibreboards: 40kg/m2 Other rigid tile backer boards: Consult manufacturer

Before tiling to gypsum (or calcium sulphate) floorboards, they must first be primed with a single coat of ARDEX P 51 diluted 1:3 with water, applied in one continuous coat using a brush or broom. Once the ARDEX P 51 is dry, it can then be tiled as normal using an appropriate ARDEX Cement-Based Tile Adhesive.

Underfloor heating systems for stone, porcelain, or ceramic tiles must be installed in a minimum screed depth of 65mm, following British Standards. After curing, gradually bring the system to operating temperature at a rate of 5°C per day, maintaining it for 2-3 days before allowing it to cool down. During installation, ensure the temperature stays at 15°C, unless using specific types of screed like Anhydrite, Hemihydrate, or Gypsum.

How to tile to anhydrite screeds using cement-based adhesives | Installation guide

Preparation, as well as suitability, will greatly depend on the substrate itself. For example a plasterboard wall will require a different level of preparation compared to a ready to tile construction board. Waterproofing, in necessary areas, is critical and very much part of NHBC regulations, we work closely with both Ardex and Schluter who offer a comprehensive range of products for both substrates and tanking systems.

The screed must be at least three weeks old to enable movement caused by drying shrinkage to have taken place. After three weeks the heating should be switched on to heat gradually to manufacturer’s recommended operating temperature at maximum increments of 5°C every 24 hours. Ideally, leave the heating at this temperature for three days before allowing to cool gradually to room temperature. This allows the heating system to be tested as well as reducing the risk of the screed cracking due to thermal movement when the floor is heated.

Proper preparation and technique are essential when installing 20mm external porcelain tiles over a concrete base. This ensures long-term performance, durability, and a professional finish. Below is a step-by-step overview of the process:

1. Preparation:
Ensure the concrete is fully cured, at least 6 weeks (or 3 weeks for cement-sand screed after curing). The surface must be clean, dry, and free from dust or contaminants. Wire-brush any dusty areas. If necessary, level the surface with ARDEX K 301 Exterior Self Levelling Compound.

2. Fixing Tiles:
Use a suitable cement-based adhesive like ARDEX X 7 R S1 or ARDEX X 11 W (for extended working time). Apply adhesive with a solid-bed notched trowel at a 45° angle, then press tiles firmly in place with a twisting motion to form a full 3–4mm adhesive bed. Butter the tile backs if they have deeply keyed profiles. Work in small sections, clean off excess adhesive promptly, and avoid walking on the tiles for around 3 hours.

3. Cutting Tiles:
Use a water-cooled diamond-blade bench saw designed for cutting 20mm porcelain. Always use sharp, high-quality blades to avoid chipping. For large cuts (more than 25% of the tile), cut from the internal to the external corner, ideally at a 45° angle.

4. Grouting:
Once the adhesive has cured, rake out any excess mortar from joints. Use ARDEX FLEX-FL grout, mixed manually at approx. 4:1 (powder:water), and apply with a rubber float. Work diagonally across the tiles to press the grout fully into joints.

5. Cleaning:
Remove excess grout once it becomes touch dry with a damp sponge, then buff the surface with a dry cloth. For stubborn residues, clean with Fila Deterdek. Always trial a small, inconspicuous area before grouting; seal the tiles if there’s any risk of grout staining.

How to fix porcelain tiles externally to a concrete substrate | Installation guide

For the majority of external projects, 30mm thickness is recommended and should be installed onto compacted hardcore. However, thinner tiles, such as out 20mm, can be installed onto a solid concrete base

Yes, tile colour is an important factor to consider for outdoor use, not just for looks, but also for comfort, safety, and maintenance.

• Heat reflection: Lighter coloured tiles (like white, beige, or light grey) reflect more sunlight and stay cooler underfoot, which is ideal for areas with full sun exposure or places where people often walk barefoot (e.g., around pools or patios). In contrast, darker tiles absorb heat and can become uncomfortably hot during warm weather.

• Dirt & stain visibility: Light tiles can easily show mud, leaves, and other stains. Dark tiles may hide some dirt but can highlight dust, water spots, or fading. Mid-tone tiles or those with natural patterns or textures are best at hiding everyday grime, reducing the frequency of cleaning and maintenance.

• Aesthetics & design: The colour of your tile should complement the style of your home, outdoor furniture, and surrounding landscaping. Lighter tones can make small spaces feel larger and brighter, while darker tones add depth and contrast. Neutral or earthy colours are often the most versatile for outdoor environments.

Sealing natural stone used externally is a personal choice and a topic of ongoing debate. Outdoor stone surfaces are exposed to atmospheric elements, moisture, and organic matter, all of which can cause staining or alter the appearance of the material over time.

While sealing can help protect against water ingress and staining, some people prefer to let the stone weather naturally, allowing it to develop a patina over time.

Two main factors should be considered:

• Type of stone: Lighter stones like off-white limestone are more prone to visible staining and generally benefit more from sealing, whereas darker, more rustic stones like sandstone or slate may be left untreated with fewer aesthetic concerns.

• Scale of the area: Sealing large external areas can be more costly, so it’s important to weigh the practical benefits against the expense.

If you choose to seal, we recommend applying 1–2 coats of Fila MP90 Eco Xtreme, depending on the stone’s porosity, for effective outdoor protection.

Ultimately, the decision comes down to your preferences and how you want the stone to age in your environment.

Installing outdoor porcelain requires careful preparation to ensure durability, proper drainage, and a clean finish. Below is a summary of the key steps involved in the process:

• Excavation: Excavate to a depth that allows for the sub-base, mortar, and paving thickness. Ensure the finished surface is at least 150mm below the damp-proof course (DPC) of adjacent structures.
• Sub-base: Use a well-graded Type 1 granular material, compacted in 75mm layers. Avoid materials with organic content. The finished sub-base should have a longitudinal fall of 1.25% and a cross fall of 2.5% for drainage.
• Laying Paving: Mix tiles from different packs for a consistent finish. Lay tiles on a full mortar bed (1:4 cement/sharp sand), 15–30mm thick. Apply a slurry bond (Ardex P51 and cement) to the tile backs before laying. Tamp tiles gently into the bed and adjust for level and stability.
• Cutting: Use a water-cooled diamond blade saw suitable for 20mm porcelain. High-quality blades are essential to avoid chipping. For large cuts (over 25% of a tile), cut from inner to outer corner at a 45° angle.
• Grouting: Use Ardex Flex FL grout. Rake out excess mortar from joints before grouting. Mix grout by adding powder to liquid and apply using a rubber float, pressing grout fully into joints.
• Cleaning: Remove excess grout once touch dry using a damp sponge. Buff the surface dry and use Fila Deterdek for stubborn residues. Trial a small area first to check for staining, seal tiles if needed.

Fixing 20mm porcelain to compacted sub-base | Installation guide

Proper ground preparation is essential for the successful installation of stone flagstones or cobbles, and it depends on both the intended use of the paved area and the specific site conditions.

1. Clearance Below Damp-Proof Course
   It is crucial to ensure that the paving or cobbling is installed at least 150mm below the damp-proof course (DPC) of any building. Additionally, a gradient of 1:60 should be maintained to create a ‘fall’ that ensures water drains away from the building, preventing water ingress.

2. Stabilising Layer
   A stabilising layer, typically 100mm of scalping or crushed hardcore, should be laid down to create a solid foundation. This is followed by a 30-40mm sand bed, which should be compacted using a vibrating plate compactor to provide a stable base.

3. Laying the Perimeter Tiles
   The perimeter tiles should be bedded in wet mortar to firmly anchor them in place and prevent any potential ‘spread’ during installation. This ensures the outer edges are stable before filling in the central area.

4. Bedding the Remaining Tiles
   For the remaining tiles, a semi-dry or dry 4:1 sand/cement mix can be used for bedding, depending on the thickness of the stone. The right mix ensures secure adhesion to the substrate while allowing flexibility for the stone’s natural movement.

5. Considerations for Stone Type and Porosity
   The porosity and shade of the stone must always be considered during installation. For example, lighter-coloured stones should not be laid with a wet mix, as pigments from the cement can bleed into the stone and cause permanent stains.

6. Suitable Substrate for External Stone Tiles
   The prepared substrate will support exterior stone tiles of 20mm thickness or above. It is essential to verify that the material is suitable for exterior use. For thinner tiles, including many porcelain options, they can be laid on a concrete slab with adhesive and grout, following the same procedures used for internal applications. The concrete slab must be designed and installed according to relevant standards for external applications.

7. Grouting and Jointing
   After the tiles are fixed, the grout gaps can be filled with sharp or pit sand, which should be brushed into the dry joints to finish the installation.

Natural stone is often used outdoors. In these conditions, rust and sulphate stains are common. For small rust stains, use no rust stain remover which, with its non-acidic formulation, is particularly suited to delicate surfaces like polished marble (internally). Its gel-like consistency means that it acts directly on the stain without wastage, and reduces the risk of contact with grass and plants in the vicinity of the affected area. Completely cover the stain with the stain remover. Leave it for 15 minutes, then remove the residue and rinse thoroughly. Please note – the reaction between the product and the rust will show a purple solution which will be wiped off after 15 mins. Any purple haze from this process will dissipate naturally with weathering as time passes.

When selecting tiles for outdoor use, it’s crucial to choose finishes that provide durability and slip resistance to ensure both safety and long-term performance.

Polished tiles are generally not recommended for outdoor areas. Their smooth, glossy surface can become dangerously slippery when wet, making them unsuitable for patios, walkways, or pool surrounds. In addition, exposure to weather elements like rain, sun, and temperature changes can cause polished surfaces to deteriorate or lose their shine over time.

Honed tiles, with their smooth but matt finish, are a better option for outdoor use. They offer improved traction compared to polished tiles, making them safer underfoot. However, it’s essential to ensure the stone is rated for exterior applications, as some materials may be more prone to moisture absorption or weathering. Proper sealing and maintenance can enhance their durability outdoors.

Riven finish tiles have a naturally split, textured surface that offers excellent slip resistance, making them ideal for outdoor areas such as patios or garden paths, as well as indoor wet areas like bathrooms. They also bring a rustic, natural aesthetic to any setting.

Tumbled tiles are also a great outdoor choice, thanks to their rough, aged surface that provides strong slip resistance. They’re commonly used in walkways, courtyards, and other outdoor living spaces where safety and character are important.

Choosing the right finish ensures your outdoor space is not only beautiful but also safe and built to last.

Porcelain and ceramic tiles are among the most popular choices for bathroom floors and walls due to their excellent water resistance, durability, and ease of maintenance, qualities that make them ideal for the humid environment of a bathroom. Porcelain, in particular, is denser and less porous than ceramic, offering superior moisture resistance and strength, which makes it especially well-suited for high-traffic areas and wet zones like showers.

Natural stone tiles, such as marble, slate, or travertine, are also a beautiful option for bathrooms, bringing a luxurious and timeless aesthetic. While they are more porous than porcelain or ceramic, with proper sealing and ongoing care, natural stone can perform well in bathroom settings and add a unique, organic character to the space.

Ultimately, the best tile choice comes down to your preferences for appearance, performance, and the level of maintenance you’re comfortable with.

There’s no strict requirement for slip ratings in domestic bathrooms, but safety is still important, especially in wet conditions. For residential use, tiles with an R9 or R10 slip rating are commonly used and generally considered suitable. For added safety, especially in walk-in showers or wet rooms, look for tiles with a Pendulum Test Value (PTV) of 36 or higher in wet conditions, which indicates a low slip risk. A matt porcelain tile is often a good choice, offering a practical balance between slip resistance and style.

Each tile finish offers different benefits and considerations for bathroom use:

• Polished: Polished tiles can be used in bathrooms, but they are generally not recommended for floors due to their slippery surface when wet. Their high-gloss finish adds a luxurious and reflective appearance, making them ideal for walls, vanity backsplashes, or shower surrounds where they won’t pose a slip risk.

• Tumbled: Tumbled tiles are an excellent choice for bathroom floors, shower enclosures, and walls. Their naturally textured and slightly uneven surface provides superior slip resistance, making them a safe option for wet environments. Aesthetically, they bring a rustic, weathered charm that suits traditional, Mediterranean, or vintage-inspired designs.

• Honed Tiles: Honed feature a smooth, matte surface that provides a good balance between style and safety. Without a glossy finish, they offer enhanced slip resistance compared to polished tiles, making them ideal for bathroom floors and other moisture-prone areas. They deliver a subtle, elegant look that complements both modern and classic interiors.

• Brushed Tiles:
  Brushed tiles offer moderate slip resistance, combining smoothness with enough texture for safe use in bathrooms, kitchens, and utility rooms. While not as grippy as heavily textured tiles, they perform well when properly maintained and kept dry. Their finish provides a refined yet practical appearance suited to everyday use.

In summary for bathroom floors, tumbled and honed tiles are the safest and most practical choices due to their slip resistance. Brushed tiles are also suitable with mindful maintenance, while polished tiles are best reserved for walls or decorative areas where water exposure is minimal.

Marble is a timeless and elegant choice for bathroom floors, walls, and countertops, offering a luxurious natural look. However, because marble is a porous material, it requires proper sealing to protect against moisture, stains, and spills. Using a high-quality sealer is essential to maintain both its appearance and longevity in a bathroom setting.

One key consideration when using marble in wet areas is slip resistance. Polished marble tiles can be particularly slippery when wet, making them less suitable for bathroom floors or other high-moisture environments. To improve safety, it’s recommended to choose a honed or tumbled finish, which offers a more textured surface and better grip underfoot, while still showcasing the natural beauty of the stone.

With the right finish and proper sealing, marble tiles can be a stunning and practical option for bathrooms. Just be sure to factor in maintenance and finish type to ensure the space is both safe and stylish.

Absolutely, slate is an excellent choice for spaces like bathrooms, kitchens, and even outdoor areas. Its natural resistance to moisture and durability make it well suited to handle the demands of these environments. However, to ensure slate performs at its best and maintains its appearance over time, it’s important to apply a proper sealant. Sealing helps prevent water absorption, staining, and potential damage from prolonged exposure to moisture. With the right care and maintenance, slate tiles can provide both beauty and functionality in even the most moisture-prone areas of your home.

Ceramic tiles themselves are water resistant, making them a popular choice for wet areas like bathrooms and kitchens. However, the grout lines between the tiles are porous and not inherently waterproof. To prevent water from seeping through these gaps, it’s important to properly seal the grout during installation and maintain that seal over time. Additionally, having a good waterproof membrane or layer beneath the tiles provides an extra level of protection against water infiltration. With proper installation and maintenance, ceramic tile surfaces can effectively resist moisture and help protect your walls and floors from water damage.

Yes, stone slabs are an excellent choice for vanity tops and bath surrounds, offering natural beauty and durability that can elevate any bathroom design. Their unique patterns and textures create a luxurious, timeless look that adds character to your space. However, because some stones are porous, it’s important to properly seal them to protect against water damage and staining. Regular sealing helps maintain the stone’s appearance and longevity, ensuring your vanity tops and bath surrounds stay looking beautiful for years to come.

Wet areas are exposed to more intense and prolonged moisture, so they require enhanced sealing to ensure lasting protection. In these settings, we recommend applying multiple coats of Fila MP90 Eco Xtreme, a deep-penetrating water-based sealant that helps protect the stone from water ingress and staining.

A liquid surface wax should not be used in wet areas. Prolonged exposure to moisture can cause surface waxes to become cloudy or degrade over time, compromising both the appearance and the protection of the surface.

For best results, speak to our team to determine the right number of base sealant coats for your specific installation.

A tanking system, which can be either a waterproof membrane or a liquid-applied coating, is essential to create a moisture resistant barrier beneath the tiles. This protective layer prevents water and other forms of moisture from penetrating through to the subfloor and walls, thereby safeguarding the structural integrity of the building. By applying a tanking system, you reduce the risk of water damage, mould growth, and deterioration of materials. Proper installation of this waterproofing layer is crucial to ensure long-lasting protection and to maintain a healthy, dry environment beneath and behind the tiled surfaces.

How to tile wet room installations with Schluter and Ardex products | Installation guide

When planning a wet room, the background must be stable and rendered watertight before tiling begins. Tiles alone don’t create a waterproof layer, so the substrate should be waterproofed or ‘tanked’ using suitable materials like Schlüter waterproofing membranes, sealant adhesives, and drainage systems. Always use water-resistant adhesives, grouts, and substrates, and avoid materials vulnerable to moisture damage. Choose tile materials carefully, porcelain tiles are non-porous and slip-resistant, while natural stone, though beautiful, is porous and may react to water over time. Any necessary falls should be incorporated into the substrate, with Schlüter’s preformed shower bases and floor drains available to assist.

How to tile wet room installations with Schluter and Ardex products | Installation guide

Porcelain and ceramic tiles are among the best options for kitchen flooring thanks to their durability, stain resistance, and ease of cleaning. Porcelain is especially hard-wearing and less porous than ceramic, making it highly resistant to moisture, scratches, and heavy foot traffic, perfect for busy kitchen environments. Ceramic tiles are slightly softer but still very practical and come in a wide variety of styles, patterns, and colours to suit any kitchen design.

Natural stone tiles, such as slate, granite, or travertine, can also be used to add a unique, organic feel to your kitchen. These materials are strong and long-lasting, but they are more porous than porcelain or ceramic and will require regular sealing to prevent stains, moisture damage, and wear over time.

When choosing tiles for a kitchen floor, it’s also a good idea to consider slip resistance, especially in areas prone to spills. A textured or matt finish can help improve safety without compromising style.

A splashback is a protective surface, typically installed behind stoves, sinks, or countertops to shield walls from moisture, grease, and stains. It also adds a decorative element to the kitchen or bathroom.

Tiles are a great choice for splashbacks as they’re durable, heat-resistant, easy to clean, and available in endless colours, patterns, and sizes.

Yes, marble is safe for food preparation when it is properly sealed and maintained. Its naturally cool surface makes it a favourite among bakers and chefs, especially for tasks like  working with pastry, as it helps keep ingredients at an ideal temperature. However, marble is a porous and acid-sensitive stone, so it’s important to avoid letting acidic foods, such as lemon juice, vinegar, or tomato sauce, sit on the surface for extended periods, as these can cause etching or dull spots. Regular sealing helps protect the marble from stains and damage, making it a practical and elegant choice for kitchen countertops and food preparation areas.

The best tiles for splashbacks are those that are durable, water-resistant, and easy to clean:

• Ceramic and porcelain tiles are the most popular choices because they offer excellent durability and resistance to moisture.
• Large-format tiles are ideal if you want a sleek, modern look with fewer grout lines, which makes cleaning easier. Just be sure they are properly sealed and use waterproof grout.
• Natural stone tiles can create a beautiful, luxurious appearance but usually need to be sealed regularly to protect against stains.

Absolutely! Ceramic tiles are an excellent choice for kitchens due to their durability, ease of cleaning, and resistance to moisture and stains. These qualities make ceramic tiles ideal for a variety of kitchen surfaces, including backsplashes, and floors. They can withstand daily wear and tear from cooking, spills, and foot traffic without losing their appearance.

Yes, ceramic tiles are heat resistant, which makes them an excellent choice for areas exposed to high temperatures. They can safely be used in kitchens, around fireplaces, and near stoves without risk of damage from heat. This resistance helps protect surfaces from burns or warping that might occur with other materials. Additionally, ceramic tiles retain heat well, making them practical and stylish for both functional and decorative applications in heat-prone areas.